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"After all, the grand tour is just the inspired man's way of heading home." The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux.

On Sunday Jojo and Joma picked us up, so we didn't have to stand in the rain at the bus stop. It finally cooled down here, and it rains a lot, but I don't mind. I can finally wear scarves again. The four of us drove to Nini's for lunch, that has become our weekend custom.

Amina served stir-fried greens, marinated chicken and some sort of ultra bony fish. No creature should have as many bones as this fish had. I plopped what I wanted in my rice bowl and listened to the rain. When the food was gone, Jojo and Nini discussed the past week's commotion. Pretty much the only word I could pick out in their conversation was "China."

After lunch everyone else fell asleep. Jojo and I sat on the couch and talked a long time. Jojo is a deputy minister of economic planning and development. We talked about what China envoy Chen Yunlin's visit to Taiwan means now and for the future (it was the highest-level of talk between the two governments that there's been in decades). I'm just scratching the surface of Taiwanese politics. Sitting in a family living room and chatting about the state of the nation with a government official - that's a rare opportunity for an Alaskan-cum-Oregonian like myself. I'm lucky to be here. And I'm lucky to be here with so many people who want to show James and I what Taiwan is all about.

When the others awoke, Nini served us dessert - a warm, pasty soup made with blended rice, sugar and almond flavoring, a good after-lunch snack for a cold day spent pleasantly indoors.

I'm getting comfortable here. I'm no longer stultified when converting U.S. dollars to Taiwanese in my head. I don't need James to guide me by the wrist through Taipei anymore. I have a favorite noodle counter up the block from the apartment. I know where to find the best dumplings in the world. I like the watchman who says good morning to me. I like the bustle in Taipei. I like the quiet in Nankan. And I adore my precious, baby-faced students. Except when they bite each other. That's when I call in the Chinese teachers to handle it.

I'm not exactly ready to immigrate. But Taiwan is beginning to feel like home. I'm going to have a great year here.